Statistical Properties of Directional Ocean Waves: The Role of the Modulational Instability in the Formation of Extreme Events
Onorato, M × Waseda, T Toffoli, A Cavaleri, L Gramstad, O Janssen, P. A. E. M Kinoshita, T Monbaliu, Jaak Mori, N Osborne, A. R Serio, M Stansberg, C. T Tamura, H Trulsen, K #
Amer physical soc
Physical review letters vol:102 issue:11 pages:-
We discuss two independent, large scale experiments performed in two wave basins of different dimensions in which the statistics of the surface wave elevation are addressed. Both facilities are equipped with a wave maker capable of generating waves with prescribed frequency and directional properties. The experimental results show that the probability of the formation of large amplitude waves strongly depends on the directional properties of the waves. Sea states characterized by long-crested and steep waves are more likely to be populated by freak waves with respect to those characterized by a large directional spreading.